Thursday the 25th began with an early rising, 6:00 a.m., to beat the crowds at one of the most popular temples in Kyoto, Kiyomizudera (清水寺, literally “Pure Water Temple”). It was founded in 780 on the site of the Otowa Waterfall in the wooded hills east of Kyoto and gets its name from the fall’s waters. In 1994, it became an UNESCO World Heritage Site. Kiyomizudera is best known for its wooden stage that juts out above the hillside. The temple was built without the use of nails. It holds a precious memory for me in Japan.

Photo I took in the ’80s
With my mom at Kiyomizudera in 1988
With Mike on the temple’s wooden platform in 1988

I was so glad we decided to go early in the morning, because we beat most of the crowds and it was peaceful.

The hill leading up to the temple is usually crowded with people and open shops…because we went in the early morning, everything was closed
Going up to the temple
The pagoda pictured above with my mom visiting
Daikoku-ten, a god of business that guarantees success
All that climbing early in the morning was worth it for that view
Recreating that photo from above
Leaves starting to turn!
No nails!
dedicated to Koyasu Kannon, a goddess who grants safe delivery of children
More red-bibbed Jizo

After leaving the temple, we went in search of coffee while we walked back to our hotel (about 25 minutes). Mike is a bit addicted! Unfortunately, the Japanese are not as much. Most coffee shops don’t open until 9:00! Fortunately we found one.

It was a sweet little coffee shop! This is the only photo I took, though, of their well-branded toilet paper!
Kyoto is FULL of kimono rental places!
We were very surprised to pass this building on the way back to the hotel…in general, Japanese people do not freely express their political opinions. The small sign at the top said that their signs kept getting ripped down and appealing to people not to do that.

We stopped at the Yasaka Shrine (八坂神社, Yasaka Jinja), also known as Gion Shrine, on our way back. It hosts one of Japan’s most famous festivals, the Gion Matsuri. It was founded over 1,350 years ago.

Then we packed up and checked out of the Gion Crystal Hotel. It had been nice to stay somewhere three days in a row!

Goodbye Kyoto!

We headed back into Osaka for the big meeting with Mike’s Kinki University colleagues. Yes, you read that right. Mike taught at Kinki University, and I taught at a junior college that was part of Kinki University for my first year in Japan. As you can imagine, it elicited a lot of guffaws. Taking that into consideration, the university changed its nickname in 2014 to “Kindai.

But first we explored a bit of our old Osaka.

Had to take a photo of these new restrooms at Osaka’s Namba Station, because in the 1980s, the Namba restroom was the MOST DISGUSTING I had ever been in! They had squat toilets (see below), it was filthy, and it smelled to high heaven!

We headed to Fuse, where Mike used to live. We thought we’d have an easier time than we did in Hirano (my old neighborhood), but it took us awhile to find the right street because everything had changed so much!

We looked for a KFC, because there used to be one near his apartment that we frequented often, but this one was part of the station now…not the right one!
Finally found the right shopping street…as you can see, it’s worse for wear!!
What’s where the old KFC used to be
This shopping arcade (where Mike’s apartment was) used to be bustling…now most of the shops are closed up
On the first floor of his apartment building, there used to be a French restaurant…now it’s a day care center (a rare site in Japan)
Mike outside of his apartment! They used to have their names outside of the doors, and funny story…when I first met Mike, I thought his name was “Michael Martin”! It wasn’t until I went to his apartment and saw his name by the door, I realized my error! I’d never encountered the name “Gilmartin” before!
Pointing out his apartment on the 4th floor…it was REALLY nice, much fancier than mine, which I shared with my roommate, Jean!

We were looking for one of the best sushi restaurants I remember, near Fuse Station, but we finally gave up. Instead we found this incredible Indian restaurant for lunch. So fantastic! And with veggie options!

My veggie lunch
These prices were amazing…1400 yen is about $10, for all that food! We had the lunch meal sets, which included a mango lassi
Kindai University gate in the background

Next we went to “Kindai” University to meet some of Mike’s colleagues and get a tour from his old friend, Ishizaki. When Mike arrived at Kinki, Ishizaki-san was brand new to the university. He was assigned to help Mike get adjusted and get him anything he need. (Just saying: I never had anyone like that!! Just one example of how Mike had it so much easier than I did in Japan!!)

My husband, the introvert! 🙂

Commencing the tour! Kindai has ballooned in size since we lived in Japan, and it has some amazing new buildings.

On the tour, loaded down with omiyage (souvenirs)!
The library was spread out and beautifully designed
Student sleeping! One thing that always amazes/ed me is that most Japanese people can sleep ANYWHERE, probably from being sleep deprived!
Where they used to work
Squat toilet in the now-old building where Mike used to work…I saw only a handful of these on our trip, but in the ’80s they were everywhere!! I suppose they are more sanitary to you, but messy for a woman (and probably why the Namba Station toilet smelled so badly!)
In the Kindai Museum…this rickshaw is to honor the first president, who used to ride to the university in a rickshaw
Students studying English and other languages now

After an exhaustive tour, Ishizaki-san took us by bus and train back to Namba and Shinsaibashi, where everything happens! We met some more of Mike’s colleagues for a classic Japanese dinner like I remembered! So much food and sake!

First we stopped a shrine to light incense
Namba/Shinsaibashi at night

Dinner was in a labrythine old traditional restaurant. It was incredible and far too much food! I really appreciated Ishizaki-san’s response to Mike telling him I didn’t eat meat. So much food and drink.

Ishizaki-san with two English teachers, who spoke outstanding English and were very well traveled
I ended up sitting next to Nagino-san, who spoke the least amount of English! He’s a lovely man, and we found ways to communicate with my limited Japanese and Google Translate!

I must admit I was a little nervous about this dinner (as my Japanese is not as good as it used to be), but I had a fabulous time! Typical Japanese hospitality!


Leave a comment